Help - Search - Members - Calendar. Full Version: a 7afe's true power. Ok just wanted to talk about something that has been on my mind. On Friday, we dyno'ed the new engine, which now has a whopping miles on it. It showed us This is up just 4 horsepower from the previous baseline pre-engine rebuild at Our thinking is that the engine was running well, with loose bearing clearances before the rod bearing spun, so a stock rebuild wouldn't be a major source of horsepower.
The ECU's fuse was then pulled for approximately 30 seconds and the car was run again, this time showing I am going to rebuild my 7a-fe with forged rods and pistons, and have the head ported and polished, then im going to try to get a decent performance cam and sprockets, lightweight pulleys, CAI, header and exhaust, and finnaly a turbo. Just about any engine can make big power.
The reason that the engines to have work so well and are so easy to mod to big power levels is because the development has already been done on them. Engine development is VERY expensive when it has to be done from scratch. Its probably theoretically possible to get hp out of a 7a-fe but there would be virtually nothing stock left. Its debateable at which point it stops being a 7a-fe and becomes a totally different beast.
The block casting, the crank forging, and the head casting were the only stock parts remaining on the engine.
The same could be done with a 7a The problem is that as power increases linearly, cost increases exponentially. I totally believe that there are people on this board with enough money and know-how to make hp out of a 7a.
I have the knowledge, but not the money right now. As was stated before, hp is possible on a solid stock bottom end. This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.There is not a lot of difference between a good 4AGE build and a good 7AGE build but here we will discuss those differences as well as how to pick the right combination of parts to get the most out of your build.
One of the biggest issues to address is the cam timing. The 7A block has a This requires a longer timing belt but it also changes the cam timing. We offer an OEM crank gear that we rebroach to perfectly account for the change in timing. Next you need a timing belt. This can get confusing since there are so many head and tensioner combinations. I don't currently have a belt available for the Blacktop tensioner. Most people switch to the 16 valve oil pump and tensioner.
With these two components the silvertop and blacktop can both use the stock 16 valve timing belt. This is because the 20v cams are much closer together and require a shorter belt than the 16v.How to rebuild a 1994 7AFE 4AFE Toyota Corolla yellow Engine
This is great because there are many high performance belts for the 4AGE. The 16 valve motors require a longer belt. This tooth belt is the most common solution. The downside is that this belt requires you to run the 7AFE oil pump and tensioner. The 4AGE pump and tensioner does not allow enough throw to tighten the belt.
The 7A pump positions the tensioner a little bit differently allowing you to tension the longer belt. Unfortunately the 7AFE pump is smaller and does not pump as much oil. This should be a non issue for a mild build, or daily driver type build. If you are going for a performance build the latest revision high volume 4AGE oil pump will be a much better choice. To run that you need this belt. The last big difference you will encounter is the rods and pistons. You will not want to use the 7A pistons because they are not designed around the head.
You can use 4AGE main bearings however the rod bearings are a different size so you will need to use 7AFE rod bearings. There are a couple other notable differences. The 7A rods and pistons are press fit pins instead of floating wrist pins like the 4AGE. If you decide to use the stock rods with 4AGE pistons you will need to get the rods modified for floating wrist pins.
The 7A rods also put the pistons about. You will need to compensate for this with the headgasket or by shaving the deck. The much easier solution to this problem is our 7AGE rod.
It has been made specifically for this conversion and solves all the above problems.
The small end is designed for 20mm 4AGE pistons and floating wrist pins. It is also. These rods are also much stronger and should be able to take anything you can throw at them.
One other thing to remember is that the added stroke of the 7A will change the compression ratio of a given piston.After owning an AE86 for a long time and enjoying the car to the fullest, I had the chance to ride with Bobs orange monster. His Ae86 had overgone several transformations including a mildly tuned 4age 16V to a semi built 20V with bhp. But nothing lasted in the car for too long. Finally, a 7age 1. The big advantage is more torque throughout the rpm band. Starting with a bone stock 7a-fe engine.
I never thought I would have the chance to feel the torque of the 7age when I sold my AE. I always wanted to try something like this.
Just to own the bit of extra torque and power generated through cc more displacement. The ride was very impressive. The engine is properly built and has a superb powerband and was really screaming to 8k rpm. Compared to my old engine it was like sitting in a V8 with lots of torque.2020 09 b79aei jpa repository update list of entities
Even with 2 passengers in the car and the long 4. The engine was a blast. But honestly, compared to my low budget build and tune, the 7age lacks response. As usual the engine is stripped to the bare block.
The key points of building the 7age engine are really in the detail. Bringing the right parts together and blueprinting it is the biggest part of the build. The piston and conrod assembly. The bottom end was balanced and the flywheel and crankshaft lightened.
The rods are Spool conrods, which are still very cheap ones — but nonetheless a lot better than the 7age components. For pistons he went with a set of Wiseco 4age 20mm pistons and chopped the crown by 1mm. As a matter of fact, most budget 7age builds use OEM conrods and a set of 4age redtop 20mm pistons.
The assembly looks like a super high compression one, and yes it is! Bobs engine has around The right cams are one of the most important parts to determine peak power and band. Still a few details on the block. The oil pan is a genuine 7a pan, which is already bigger than our 4age pans.
The mod the Ae86 racers have been waiting for!Hyper tough h2500 parts diagram
No more smoke, no more panic mode! This is how the 4age should have been designed — proper drainage! The head is nothing special. The last bits on the engine are the ITB system, valvecover and an exedy clutch assembly. The final step is the break in and the ecu tuning for the new engine.A generation of the Toyota A engines was produced together with the famous and well-know Toyota S models. One of the most outstanding and popular engines of that brand is a 4A motor.
It was a 4-cylinder engine, which appeared long ago, in For the first time, it was a weak 4A-C with a carburetor. Its cylinder head consisted of 8 valves with one SOHC camshaft.Lincoln ne police mugshots
The motor was modified within a course of time; it became more powerful, more advanced. Toyota 4A engine firing order is Apart from that legendary engine, other models, such as the 5A and 7A engines were successfully manufactured.
The Toyota 4A production stopped in It was replaced with the 3ZZ-FE namely at that time. That model was originally designed for the market of North America. Its compression ratio was 9. The compression ratio was 9. A similar type of the 5A engine was produced later, but it had a diminished displacement 1.
A few generations of that motor were manufactured. Its power is HP. The power of such an engine equals HP. The engine is similar to the 4AFE Gen2 with small improvements of the inlet system. The compression ratio is 9.
It was designed by Yamaha and equipped with a multi point injection MPI. It possesses a completely renewed cylinder head of a new modification. Apart from that, more aggressive camshafts and a T-VIS variable-length intake manifold go with that model.
Toyota S engine
New connecting rods and pistons go with the model. They perfectly fit the The intake manifold has been changed. The main difference is a usage of another twincam valve cylinder head 3 inlet and 2 outlet valves. More aggressive camshafts, variable valve timing on the intake camshaft, individual throttle bodies are used. The compression ratio is high: not more less than After all that upgrading, the 4AGE capacity is horsepower at 7, rpm.
That engine has enlarged throttle body. The inlet and outlet ports are improved. The flywheel and pistons are facilitated, the engine compression ratio is about More aggressive cams have been installed. A supercharger is applied. The SC12 supercharger is used. The maximal boost pressure is 9 psi 0. Forged pistons are applied to that engine compression ratio — 8. It also possesses a T-VIS variable-length intake manifold.Skip to content. Quick links. Stuffs i can get for the 7A block ar 1zz crankshaft, ca18det pistons and so on.
Anyone here have experience in fitting the 1zz crankshaft? Do i need to do any machining in order for the crankshaft to sit in? The crankshaft will fit 20v 8. I cannot get a 2zz rods at the moment but any other rods could be used? I was told B18 Honda and 4G93 mitsubishi rods will fit. I have heard a lot of talk about these super hybrid motors but have never seen it actually implimented.
More importantly can't figure out why anyone would. All the time and money of custom work and experimenting and if you are lucky you might have something almost as good as a 2ZZ. There are a few simpler options.Dea contact
I can get stroker cranks that will fit in the 4A block. This simplifies things a lot because you don't have to adjust for the taller block.
I believe I can also get a better 7A crank. None of those options will be terribly cheap but much simpler than trying to make a mega frankenstein. What are you trying to do?
Are you limited to displacement? Are you limited to NA? Why try to make such a crazy build? My advise will depend on your build plans. Practical or sensible is a whole other thing.
If you are transverse layout I would much rather just throw a 2ZZ in. I did a little research and it doesn't sound easy to find a longitudinal trans for one but there are plenty of other options. Even with everything you have it would take a good bit of money to get a reliable functional motor.
It would take even more to get it to outperform a 4A with the same amount of time and money put into it. That's assuming you go simple and use something like 7A crank and GZE pistons or something like that. Get into all this other stuff and the time and money to performance ratio just doesn't make sense to me. For less than the cost and time to do the 7A a turbo 4A could be build that would walk on any NA 7A ever built.
I started a 7a 20v build already too. There is alot that goes into it. So you would want to upgrade them. I am using eagle hbeams from a Honda b You should get a hold of Barry at MRP they have done a bunch of 7a conversions along with others. They know their stuff!My Starlet page The plans for the three engines to go into the Starlet. There are a few other engines I'm going to be fitting to the car, as time goes by.
More on that next section. The head that I'm going to use is from the largely despised 7AFE. There's a very poor one that's by far the most common and they have rather small inlet ports that come out low on the inlet side and so the angles the air has to go through to get to the combustion chamber is extremely poor indeed. Those heads are boat anchors. They use the Toyota TVIS device to try to improve the low-end torque without sacrificing the top-end power.
They have a lot more potential as the ports go into the head at a steep angle and so have the opportunity to flow a lot more air. The port angle into the head is similar to the 20 valve 4AGE, but of course they only have the two inlet valves. Both this head and the type above have the fuel injectors either in the head or remotely out in the inlet manifold. The head in question is pictured below, and as you can see it only has a single inlet port per cylinder, but they also go into the head at a rather steep angle.
This makes for a damn good inlet port for not a lot of work. Again there are two types for this head, but the variations are only relatively minor changes in the port bifurcation divider and bolt hole bumps in the port. However, the combustion chamber will need a lot of work to make it produce a lot of power.
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I've looked at a lot of different types of engines and found certain consistancies with squish areas that I will be using when finishing the chamber. I'll also be trying some Formula One style tricks with the chamber. This means a complicated piston top shape, and hopefully I can get exactly what I want made.
The exhaust ports will also need a lot of work, but fortunately the work that needs to be done makes them end up all the same gives them a very efficient shape. I have found a standard 31mm Toyota bucket that uses no shims at all it has a small 'stem' underneath that is trimmed to the right length to get the right valve clearance and so is very light indeed.
Yes, they will weigh more than a shorter rod but I'll be getting the new ones made up at PAR Engineering in Sydney, though the weight will be largely offset as they're titanium. The engine will also be completed in three stages - 1. Wet-sumped with a Motec M4 Pro running four injectors that sit in the inlet manifold. This is mainly to set-up the engine and run it in carefully, as I have less things to go wrong as it will in the final configuration. I have some plans for the system on this engine that make it very simple and far fewer parts than they usually have.
This makes it lighter and hopefully more reliable. The second set of four injectors to be fitted. The engine will end up with eight injectors, four in the inlet manifold behind the throttle butterflys and another four out in the end of the inlet trumpets. There is a little more power to be gained by doing this, but it's complicated and will take some time to get right with the sequencing of primary and secondary injectors.
This is why I don't want to run the engine in with it in this configuration as there is a greater chance of getting it wrong and causing damage.
Toyota 4A-F and 7A-FE engines: details and photos
It was also get a Motec M48 to run it at this point. The con-rods, as I type this, are nearly done and are being made by a company down south. A friend of mine is getting an identical set of rods from them as well, and we've been waiting for well over a year for them now. Neither of us in very happy about this at all and while I'm not in any particular hurry for them, he has missed several important dates for the car as he can't put the engine together.
We're getting them through a dealer closer to home and he's been fine, but I will not be doing business with that company down south ever again. The only reason we're sticking with them as the price is very good - especially for titanium rods - and as I type this, they're nearly finished.
I hope! This engine will be ready when it's ready. I plan to run it to 9,rpm and although I'm expecting about hp from it, it should still drive as well as a standard engine does around town. This engine is just for fun, and although I do not favour the 20v head for naturally aspirated engines I think they're a very good thing for forced induction as the variable inlet cam timing should let the turbo spool-up faster at low revs than what it otherwise would.The Toyota S Series engines are a family of straight-4 engines with displacement from 1.
The series has cast iron engine blocks and alloy cylinder heads. The 1. Bore and stroke are Original 1S engine, designed for longitudinalrear-wheel-drive applications. Designated 1S-U with Japanese emissions controls. Adaption of the 1S engine, designed for transversefront-wheel-drive applications. Designated 1S-LU with Japanese emissions controls. Adaption of the 1S-L engine, with added central injection Ci.
Designated 1S-iLU with Japanese emissions controls. Adaption of the 1S-L engine, with added multiport fuel injection. This particular engine was used in the Camry and in the Celica ST It was fitted with hydraulic lash adjusters.
Similar to the 2S engine, the bore was increased to Two-barrel carburettor version of the 3S-FE. The Toyota 3S-FE is a valve 2. A cam driven high pressure fuel pump is at the 4 end of the head. This engine was only released in Japan some imported to Russia etc.
While the block is iron, the cylinder head is made of aluminium alloy. The pent-roof combustion chambers are complemented by a cross-flow intake and exhaust layout. The firing order iswith cylinder number 1 adjacent to the timing belt. The forged crankshaft located within the crankcase, rotates on five aluminium alloy bearings and is balanced by eight weights.
Oil holes are located in the middle of the crankshaft to provide oil to the connecting rodsbearing, pistons and other moving components. The intake manifold has four independent ports and benefits from inertia build up to improve engine torque at low and medium speeds. A single timing belt drives the intake and exhaust camshaft. The cam journals are supported on five points between the valve lifters of each cylinder and on the front of the cylinder head, and are lubricated by an oiler port located in the middle of the camshaft.
The pistons are made from an aluminium alloy, designed to withstand high temperatures. An indentation is incorporated into the piston head to prevent the pistons from hitting the valves, should the timing belt break this is not true of the later BEAMS - an acronym which stands for B reakthrough E ngine with A dvanced M echanism S ystem - motors.
This is commonly referred to as a "non-interference" engine. Piston pins holding the pistons in place are locked by snap rings.Partial wave analysis of nucleon
The "Outer Shim Type System" allows for the replacement of the shims without the need to remove the camshaft. To adjust the valve clearance, adjust the shims above the valve lifters. The first compression ring and the oil ring are made of steelthe second compression ring is made of cast iron. Compression rings 1 and 2 prevent exhaust leakage from the combustion chamber while the oil ring works to clear oil off the cylinder walls, preventing excessive oil from entering the combustion chamber.
An oil pan baffle is used to ensure that there is sufficient oil available in the oil pan. All 3S-GE engines had a displacement of 2. The first-generation 3S-GE was produced from May  toarriving in both North American versions, as well as In Japan as a second variation.
Peak torque went to
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